Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 | Two Tone Rose Gold | Black Dial with Chocolate Hue

Description

This Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 stands apart for one simple reason. The gold isn’t yellow. It’s rose. Two tone Datejusts are common enough, but examples where Rolex used rose gold are far harder to come by, and this one leans fully into that warmth.

The fluted bezel is solid 18ct rose gold, matched by the rose gold winding crown. Together, they soften the watch visually and give it a richer, warmer character than the standard steel and yellow gold combination. The matte black dial pushes this even further. Under different light, it reveals subtle chocolate brown hues, a natural tonal shift that adds depth rather than distraction.

All dial text and applied hour markers are rendered in rose gold, tying the entire design together. The lume plots are fully intact and have aged evenly, matching the lume in the hands perfectly. Nothing looks out of place. Nothing feels over-restored.

The bracelet is correct and in good condition, stamped 255 with an additional R marking to denote the rose gold links. That detail matters. It confirms this watch was built intentionally, not pieced together later.

This is a Datejust for collectors who already know the standard references and want something genuinely different.

Key Features

• Brand: Rolex
• Model: Datejust
• Reference: 1601
• Year: Late 1960s to early 1970s
• Movement: Automatic
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Bezel: 18ct rose gold, fluted
• Crown: 18ct rose gold
• Dial: Matte black with chocolate brown undertones
• Hour Markers: Applied rose gold with lume plots
• Bracelet: Two tone steel and rose gold
• Bracelet Code: 255 with R stamp

Specifications

• Case Diameter: 36 mm (excluding crown)
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Bezel Material: 18ct rose gold
• Dial Color: Black with chocolate hue under light
• Movement: Automatic Rolex calibre
• Bracelet: Steel and rose gold
• Crystal: Acrylic
• Water Resistance: Originally rated, no longer guaranteed

Condition Report

• Dial: Original matte black dial showing warm chocolate tones in certain light. Lume plots intact with even, attractive aging.
• Hands: Original with lume matching the dial plots.
• Case: Stainless steel case with light wear consistent with age. Case geometry remains strong.
• Bezel and Crown: 18ct rose gold components in excellent condition with clear fluting.
• Bracelet: Original two tone bracelet in good condition with correct 255 and R stamps. Moderate stretch consistent with age.
• Crystal: Acrylic crystal with light hairlines visible under strong light.
• Movement: Automatic movement running smoothly and keeping steady time.

Historical Significance

The Datejust Ref. 1601 is one of Rolex’s most enduring designs, but rose gold executions sit firmly in the collector tier. Produced in much smaller numbers than yellow gold variants, these watches offer a warmer, more nuanced aesthetic. The combination of rose gold, matte black dial, and naturally aging lume places this example in a category that appeals to seasoned collectors rather than first-time buyers. It represents Rolex quietly experimenting within a conservative framework, and doing it exceptionally well.